The Last Meatpacker in Manhattan: John Jobbagy Reflects on the Changing Face of the Meatpacking District
Once a bustling hub for over 200 meatpacking plants, Manhattan’s Meatpacking District now symbolizes New York’s transformation.
For John Jobbagy, whose grandfather immigrated from Budapest in 1900 to join this gritty industry, the shift has been bittersweet.
A Neighborhood’s Evolution
The Meatpacking District earned its name as a loud, pungent epicenter for slaughterhouses and packing plants.
But by the late 20th century, this industry dwindled, replaced by high-end boutiques, trendy restaurants, and iconic landmarks like the High Line park.
Jobbagy, 68, reflects, “The neighborhood I grew up in is just all memories… It’s been gone for over 20 years.”
From a place where chicken juices once flowed onto streets and whiskey-warmed workers in chilly plants, the district now houses luxury galleries, flagship stores, and fashionable haunts.
Signs like “Dave’s Quality Veal” nod to the past, but today’s ambiance is unrecognizable to those who knew the area decades ago.
The Final Cleaver
Modern refrigeration and Midwest consolidation reshaped the meat industry, leaving behind a handful of traditional butchers. Jobbagy’s company and the last meat market tenants recently accepted a city deal to vacate their building for redevelopment.
Though some businesses plan to relocate, Jobbagy and his employees—many Latino immigrants—are preparing to retire.
“I’ll be here when this building closes,” Jobbagy shared. “And I’m glad I was part of it and didn’t leave before.”
The Meatpacking District’s Many Lives
Andrew Berman of Village Preservation observes, “It wasn’t always a meatpacking district… It’s had many lives and will continue to.”
From a wholesale produce hub to a shipping district in the 1800s, the neighborhood’s constant reinvention reflects the spirit of New York itself.
For Jobbagy, the district’s legacy remains. “It reeked back then,” he recalls with a grin, “but it was ours.”
When the cleaver finally falls on Gansevoort Market, Jobbagy will stand as the last of the city’s butchers, a symbol of resilience in a changing world.
Interested in the changing face of New York’s Meatpacking District? Visit our homepage for more on John Jobbagy’s journey and the history of Manhattan’s iconic meatpacking industry.